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On leaving the cross-road, the twopedestrians took a northerly direction,in which they proceeded for nearly aquarter of an hour without exchanginga syllable, the one absorbed inmeditations which the other was apparentlyunwilling to disturb. At theend of that time they paused, as if bypreconcerted arrangement, in front ofa small venta, or country inn, lessremarkable for the accommodation itafforded, than for its pleasant situationand aspect. It stood a little backfrom the road, in a nook formed bythe recession of a line of wooded hillswhich there skirt the highway. Thefront of the house, composed of roughblocks of grey stone, was overgrown bythe twisted branches of a venerablevine, the age of which did not preventit from becoming covered each springwith leaves and tendrils, nor fromyielding in the autumn an abundantsupply of delicious gold-colouredgrapes. At a short distance in frontof the door, which opened into thestable, whence a wooden step-ladderled to the upper floor, there stood ahuge oak, throwing its broad shadowover a table and some benches placedbeneath it for the accommodation ofguests. On one side of the venta,and detached from it, but in a rightline with its front, was a massivefragment of wall, which had probably,at no very remote period, formed partof a chapel or convent. Its summit,which was broken and irregular, rosefull thirty feet from the groundthroughout more than double thatlength, and along the wall, at abouttwo-thirds of a man's height, ran ahorizontal black line, indicating, asdid also the numerous marks andbruises upon the whitewashed surface,that this ancient piece of masonryenabled the frequenters of the ventato indulge in the favourite juego depelota, or a game at ball, to which theNavarrese and the northern Spaniardsgenerally are much addicted, and atwhich most of them excel.
"The extreme kindness of his naturewas grossly abused by artful performers,music-sellers, and managers of theatres.Whenever any poor artists,strangers in Vienna, applied to him forassistance, he offered them the use ofhis house and table, introduced them tothe persons whom he thought could beof use to them, and frequently composedfor their use concertos, of whichhe did not even keep a copy, in orderthat they might have the exclusive advantageof playing them. But, notcontent with this, they sold these piecesto music-publishers; and thus repaidhis kindness by robbing him. He seldomreceived any recompense for hispianoforte compositions, but generallywrote them for his friends, who were,of course, anxious to possess some workof his for their own use, and suited totheir powers of playing. Artaria, amusic-seller of Vienna, and other membersof the trade, contrived to get possessionof many of these pieces, and publishedthem without obtaining the author'sconsent, or making him any remunerationfor them. A Polish count, whowas invited to a concert at Mozart'shouse, heard a quintet performed for thefirst time, with which he was so greatlydelighted that he asked Mozart to composefor him a trio for the flute. Mozartagreed, on condition that he should doit at his own time. The count next daysent a polite note, expressive of histhanks for the pleasure he had enjoyed,and, along with it, one hundred golddemi-sovereigns (about 100 sterling.)Mozart immediately sent him the originalscore of the quintet that hadpleased him so much. The count returnedto Vienna a year afterwards, and,calling upon Mozart, enquired for thetrio. Mozart said that he had neverfound himself in a disposition to writeany thing worthy of his acceptance."Perhaps, then," said the count, "youmay find yourself in a disposition to returnme the hundred demi-sovereignsI paid you beforehand." Mozart instantlyhanded him the money, but thecount said not a word about the quintet;and the composer soon afterwards hadthe satisfaction of seeing it published byArtaria, arranged as a quartet, for thepianoforte, violin, tenor, and violoncello.Mozart's quintets for wind instruments,published also as pianoforte quartets,are among the most charming and popularof his instrumental compositions forthe chamber; and this anecdote is aspecimen of the manner in which he lostthe benefit he ought to have derived,even from his finest works. The operaof the 'Zauberflöte' was composed forthe purpose of relieving the distresses ofa manager, who had been ruined by unsuccessfulspeculations, and came to implorehis assistance. Mozart gave himthe score without price, with full permissionto perform it in his own theatre,and for his own benefit; only stipulatingthat he was not to give a copy to anyone, in order that the author mightafterwards be enabled to dispose of thecopyright. The manager promisedstrict compliance with the condition.The opera was brought out, filled histheatre and his pockets, and, some shorttime afterwards, appeared at five or sixdifferent theatres, by means of copiesreceived from the grateful manager."
We were on the march the next morningat six, the walkers more confidentthan the horsemen, some of whosebeasts did not seem at all disposed foranother day's work. Our road lay forthe most part through immense seas oflava, in the crevices of which a varietyof ferns had taken root, and, though relievingthe otherwise triste appearance,in many places shut out our view ofany thing besides. Two of the walkers,and some of the horsemen, camein at the journey's end, shortly aftereleven o'clock; the remainder, someleaving their horses behind them,straggled in by two p.m. Here wewere at the crater! Shall I confessthat my first feeling was disappointment?The plan shows some distancebetween the outer and inner rims,immediately below the place where thehouse (F) is situated; this is filled upby another level, which shuts out a [Pg 593]great part of the prospect; the remainderwas too distant, and thesun's rays too powerful, to allow of ourseeing more than a quantity of smoke,and an occasional fiery ebullition fromthe further extremity. It was notuntil we had walked to the hut (G)that we became sensible of the awfulgrandeur of the scene below; fromthis point we looked perpendicularlydown on the blackened mass, and feltour insignificance. The path leads betweenmany fissures in the ground,from which sulphurous vapour andsteam issue; the latter, condensing onthe surrounding bushes, and fallinginto holes in the compact lava, affordsa supply of most excellent water.As evening set in, the active volcanoassumed from the house the appearanceof a city in flames; long intersectinglines of fire looked like streetsin a blaze; and when here and therea more conspicuous burst took place,fancy pictured a church or some largebuilding a prey to the element. Notcontented with this distant view, threeof our party started for the hut, whencein the afternoon we had so fine aprospect. When there, although ourcuriosity was highly gratified, itprompted us to see more; so, pressinga native into our service, we proceededalong the brink of the N.W. side,until, being nearly half-way round theouter circle of the crater, we hadhoped to obtain almost a bird's-eyeview of the active volcano; we weretherefore extremely chagrined to find,that as we drew nearer our object, itwas completely shut out by a ridgebelow the one on which we stood.Our walking had thus far been verydifficult, if not dangerous, and this,with the fatigues of the morning, hadnearly exhausted our perseverance.We determined, however, to makeanother effort before giving it up, andwere repaid by the discovery of aspur which led us down, and thencethrough a short valley to the pointwhere our track (I) terminates.We came in sight of the crateras we crested the hill; the viewfrom hence was most brilliant. Thecrater appeared nearly circular, andwas traversed in all directions bywhat seemed canals of fire intenselybright; several of these radiated froma centre near the N.E. edge, so as toform a star, from which a coruscation,as if of jets of burning gas, wasemitted. In other parts were furnacesin terrible activity, and undergoingcontinual change, sometimes becomingcomparatively dark, and then burstingforth, throwing up torrents offlame and molten lava. All aroundthe edge it seemed exceedingly agitated,and noise like surf was audible;otherwise the stillness served toheighten the effect upon the senses,which it would be difficult to describe.The waning moon warned us to return,and reluctantly we retraced oursteps; it required care to do this, sothat we did not get back to the housebefore midnight. Worn out with theday's exertions, we threw ourselveson the ground and fell asleep, but notbefore I had revolved the possibilityof standing at the brink of the activecrater after nightfall. In the morningwe matured the plan, which wasto descend by daylight, so as to reconnoitreour road, to return to dinner,and then, if we thought it practicable,to leave the house about 5 P.M.,and to remain in the large crater tillafter night set in. The only objectionto this scheme (and it was a mostserious one) was, that when we mentionedit to the guides, they appearedcompletely horror-struck at the notionof it. Here, as elsewhere in theneighbourhood of volcanic activity,the common people have a superstitiousdread of a presiding deity; inthis place, especially, where they arescarcely rescued from heathenism,we were not surprised to find it. This,and their personal fears, (no humanbeing ever having, as the nativesassured us, entered the crater in darkness,)we then found insuperable: allwe could do was to take the bestguides we were able to procure with usby daylight, so that they should refreshtheir memories as to the locale,and ascertain if any change had takenplace since their last visit, and trustto being able during our walk to persuadeone to return with us in theevening. Accordingly we all left thehouse after breakfast, following thetrack marked (H), which led us precipitouslydown, till we landed on thesurface of the large crater, an immensesheet of scoriaceous lava cooledsuddenly from a state of fusion; the[Pg 594]upheaved waves and deep hollowsevidencing that congelation has takenplace before the mighty agitation hassubsided. It is dotted with cones60 or 70 feet high, and extensivelyintersected by deep cracks, from bothof which sulphurous smoke ascends.It is surrounded by a wall abouttwelve miles in circumference, in mostparts 1000 feet deep. I despair ofconveying an idea of what our sensationswere, when we first launchedout on this fearful pit to cross to theactive crater at the further end. Withall the feeling of insecurity that attendstreading on unsafe ice, wascombined the utter sense of helplessnessthe desolation of the scene encouraged:it produced a sort of instinctivedread, such as brutes mightbe supposed to feel in such situations.This, however, soon left us, and attendingour guides, who led us awayto the right for about a mile, weturned abruptly to the left, and cameupon a deep dike, which, running concentricwith the sides, terminates nearthe active crater, with which I conceiveits bottom is on a level. Thelava had slipped into it where wecrossed, and the loose blocks weredifficult to scramble over. In thelowest part where these had not fallen,the fire appeared immediately beneaththe surface. The guides here evincedgreat caution, trying with their polesbefore venturing their weight; theheat was intense, and made us gladto find ourselves again on terra firma,if that expression may be allowedwhere the walking was exceedinglydisagreeable, owing to the hollownessof the lava, formed in great bubbles,that continually broke and let us inup to our knees. This dike has probablybeen formed by the drainage ofthe volcano by a lateral vent, as thepart of the crater which it confineshas sunk lower than that outside it,and the contraction caused by loss ofheat may well account for its width,which varies from one to three hundredyards. In support of this opinion,I may mention, that in 1840 amolten river broke out, eight miles tothe eastward, and, in some places sixmiles broad, rolled down to the sea,where it materially altered the line ofcoast. From where we crossed, thereis a gradual rise until within 200 yardsof the volcano, when the surface dipsto its margin. Owing to this wecame suddenly in view of it, and, lostin amazement, walked silently on tothe brink. To the party who hadmade the excursion the previousevening, the surprise was not so greatas to the others; moreover, a brightnoonday sun, and a floating miragewhich made it difficult to discern thereal from the deceptive, robbed thescene of much of its brilliancy; stillit was truly sublime, as a feeble attemptat description will show. Thisimmense caldron, two and three quartermiles in circumference, is filled towithin twenty feet of its brim withred molten lava, over which lies athin scum resembling the slag on asmelting furnace. The whole surfacewas in fearful agitation. Great rollersfollowed each other to the side,and, breaking, disclosed deep edges ofcrimson. These were the canals offire we had noticed the night beforediverging from a common centre, andthe furnaces in equal activity; whilewhat had appeared to us like jetsof gas, proved to be fitful spurtsof lava, thrown up from all parts ofthe lake (though principally from thefocus near the N.E. edge) a height ofthirty feet. Most people probablywould have been satisfied with havingwitnessed this magnificent spectacle;but our admiration was so little exhausted,that the idea continuallysuggested itself, "How grand wouldthis be by night!" The party whohad encountered the difficulties of thewalk the night before, were convincedthat no greater ones existed in thatof to-day; and therefore, if it continuedfine, and we could induce the guideto accompany us, the project wasfeasible. The avarice of one of theseultimately overcame his fears, and,under his direction, we again left thehouse at 5 p.m., and, returning by ourold track, reached the hill above thecrater about the time the sun set,though long after it had sunk belowthe edge of the pit. Here we halted,and smoking our cigars lit from thecracks (now red-hot) which we hadpassed unnoticed in the glare of thesunlight, waited until it became quitedark, when we moved on; and, great ashad been our expectations, we foundthem faint compared with the awful[Pg 595]sublimity of the scene before us. Theslag now appeared semi-transparent,and so extensively perforated as toshow one sheet of liquid fire, its wavesrising high, and pouring over eachother in magnificent confusion, forminga succession of cascades of unequalledgrandeur; the canals, nowincandescent, the restless activity ofthe numerous vents throwing outgreat volumes of molten lava, theterrible agitation, and the brilliancyof the jets, which, shooting high in theair, fell with an echoless, lead-likesound, breaking the otherwise impressivestillness; formed a picturethat language (at least any that Iknow) is quite inadequate to describe.We felt this; for no one spoke exceptwhen betrayed into an involuntaryburst of amazement. On our handsand knees we crawled to the brink,and lying at full length, and shadingour faces with paper, looked down atthe fiery breakers as they dashedagainst the side of the basin beneath.The excessive heat, and the fact thatthe spray was frequently dashed overthe edge, put a stop to this fool-hardiness;but at a more rational distancewe stood gazing, with our feelings ofwonder and awe so intensely excited,that we paid no regard to the entreatiesof our guide to quit the spot. Heat last persuaded us of the necessityof doing so, by pointing to the moon,and her distance above the dense cloudwhich hung, a lurid canopy, abovethe crater. Taking a last look, we"fell in" in Indian file, and got backto the house, with no further accidentthan a few bruises, about ten o'clock.The walk had required caution, andit was long after I had closed my eyesere the retina yielded the impressionsthat had been so nervously drawn onthem. The next morning at nine, westarted on our return to the ship,sauntering leisurely along, pickingstrawberries by the way, and enjoyingall the satisfaction inherent to thesuccessful accomplishment of an undertaking.With health and strengthfor any attempt we had been peculiarlyfavoured by the weather, andhad thus done more than any whohad preceded us. Our party, underthese circumstances, was most joyous;so that, independent of the object, therelaxation itself was such as we creaturesof habit and discipline seldomexperience. 2ff7e9595c
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